Rooftop Gourmet

I don’t know about you, but this heat wave is starting to get exhausting. With record temperatures skyrocketing to 100+, the last thing I felt like doing was turning on my stove or standing over a scorching hot grill. Just stepping outside onto the deck felt like walking into a giant oven. I came home from work, peeled off my sweaty button-down, and decided to make soup. Yes… that’s right, soup in a heat wave.

 Gazpacho is a traditional Spanish soup made from raw vegetables, that originated in the southern region of Andalusia.

Now a days, gazpacho has many different variations, and the term gazpacho is almost generic for chilled vegetable soup. The good thing about this refreshing, summer soup is that it can be made entirely in your blender or food processor.

Most countries have some type of staple, peasant dish that incorporates crusty, day-old bread into a fabulous meal, such as the Italian tomato and bread soup or panzanella, a cold bread salad. Gazpacho is Spain’s equivalent of these peasant dishes that takes leftovers and brings them to life.

 Since, the preparation is so simple, I decided to make both the classic red and white varieties. The red gazpacho is tomato based, and in my opinion tastes better when it is chunky and has some texture.

I didn’t have any day old bread, so I toasted some sliced white bread and cut the crusts off like I would for a toddler’s PB & J. I soaked the crusty bread in some ice water for about twenty minutes while I got my blender ready.

From there on out it’s just a matter of tossing in different ingredients as if you were making a smoothie. I rang the water out of the bread by squeezing the soggy toast in clenched fists and added that first, along with tons of cherry tomatoes, red onion, jalapeno, garlic and cucumber.

 Cucumber, bread, garlic and tomatoes are staples in red gazpacho, but I enjoy a little heat from the jalapenos. As the blender roared away, I added a stream of extra virgin olive oil, and a splash of Spanish Sherry vinegar. The bread thickens the soup and makes it all come together.

After everything is incorporated, I passed the liquid through a fine mesh strainer to remove some of the gritty skins, pulp, and larger chunks of bread. With the red gazpacho, I like a chunky texture so I reserved a small dice of all of the components that I folded into the puree after. I cleaned out my blender and refrigerated the gazpacho until it was time to serve. My white gazpacho is a little bit more elegant and refined than the red. I start off the same way, with the soggy bread, and garlic cloves, but I then toss in some toasted almonds.

 The almonds give the soup a nuttiness to balance out the sweeter flavors of white grapes. Into the blender goes some of the ice water, and some white grape juice followed by the Sherry vinegar, and extra virgin olive oil. I usually press the “liquefy” button on my blender for this soup because a smooth, velvety texture is more important. I also pass the liquid through the strainer twice to make sure there is no grit in the mouthfeel.

 The white gazpacho is then seasoned, chilled, and set aside until it’s ready to serve. The longer these soups sit in the fridge, the more flavorful they get, which makes leftovers a must. Since I set my thermostat for 68 degrees, I felt that it was okay to turn my stove on for only two minutes. I quickly seared some fresh scallops on one side until they were golden brown and caramelized.

 Seafood and gazpacho are a great combination. A lot of times restaurants will serve their gazpacho in a martini glass with a few jumbo shrimp dangling over the edge. I plated a few of the scallops like buoys in the middle of each soup and topped them with a few different garnishes. With two different soups and some light seafood, we needed a wine that was equally refreshing.

I chose to open a bottle of Fetish Field of Dreams Moscato, from the Barossa Valley, Australia. This wine is modeled after the slightly sweet, slightly sparkling wines from Northern Italy. The crisp, effervescence is so refreshing with the soup. When you pour the cold wine into the glass a foamy head appears, reminiscent of a Belgian Ale. It gives off aromas of flowers, white peaches and honeydew melons.

Unlike other dessert wines, the moscato is low in alcohol and isn’t sticky and syrupy, which makes it pleasant to serve with a meal. The subtle, sweet fruit complimented the spiciness of the red gazpacho, and was pleasantly elegant with the white. The tiny bubbles cleared your palate after each sip and prepared you for a slurp of a totally different flavor. After tasting the wine, and the soup separately, I realized that a few splashes of the bubbly moscato would actually give the soup a whole new character.

Marinating fresh berries in Moscato is also a great dessert when spooned over a creamy custard. We had plenty of leftovers of soup to bring to the pool the next day, but the Field of Dreams disappeared quickly. Thankfully, I didn’t start hearing voices about building a baseball field in the middle of South Boston, but if it meant that rain will come, I might consider it.

You either love them or you hate them. A great Bloody Mary will either make you barf, or prevent you from puking up last night’s bar tab. This classic drink, said to have been created at Harry’s Bar in the 1920′s, is famous for curing the dreaded hangover. The basic combination of equal parts vodka and tomato juice has been put through years of makeovers by bartenders everywhere, claiming their own “signature” Bloody Mary.

 As a Bloody Mary aficionado (I’m not always hungover I swear) I have seen everything from smoked green tomato puree to a tall Bloody garnished with a handful of Slim Jims. My two all-time favorite places to wash one down is in the parking lot of Gillette Stadium, pre-Patriots game, and at the make-your-own Bloody Mary bar at East Coast Grill in Cambridge, MA. Both are amazing in their own way. Making your own batch the night before, so thick that you can leave the straws at home, and standing in your snow boots at 9am talking football, or hovering over 40 different condiments with a pint glass full of ice, preparing for the best brunch in town.

The best thing about a Bloody Mary is that all of the ingredients, no matter what they are, are so bold in flavor that it awakes not only your tastebuds, but all of your senses too; Spicy, salty, sweet, bitter… and boozy.

Last night, I took some of the most popular Bloody Mary staples and created a fish dish to pay homage to my favorite Sunday morning beverage. I bought a thick and meaty piece of fresh Halibut to serve as the canvas for my Bloody Mary Halibut. I started off preparing my tomato sauce by toasting some sliced garlic and crushed chile flakes to give the dish some heat.

After the sauce simmered away on the stovetop for about twenty minutes, I added a few dashes of Tabasco to give it that tangy, vinegar kick to it. The sauce wasn’t meant to be a huge part of the dish, so I had a heavy hand when kicking up the heat. My goal was to make my forehead start to perspire as it does while lurched over a tall Bloody Mary at the bar. The next thing I did was wash off a few stalks of celery, which are typically served as a garnish. I thinly shaved them on a bias and tossed them in a bowl with parsley, lemon juice and a little Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Celery adds a bitter, freshness to the classic recipe as well as a powerful crunch. A gremolata is an Italian “condiment” that is usually sprinkled over braised dishes to liven them up, such as Veal Osso Bucco.

 It normally consists of anchovies, lemon zest, and fresh parsley that is ground in a mortar and pestle. I decided to make a gremolata with lemon zest, fresh parsley and chopped green olives because all of those flavors are tied into a Bloody Mary. Most drinks are usually garnished with a lemon wedge and a few green olives that are usually fished out of the bottom of the ice with your celery stalk.

 I peeled the nasty layer off of the fresh horseradish root and revealed its ivory, white flesh. Immediately, I could smell the pungent zip that closely resembles the flavor of wasabi. Horseradish has a specific type of heat that is totally different than the heat in the tomato sauce. Unlike the Capsaicin that comes from chilie peppers and punches you in the tastebuds and numbs your tongue, the heat from horseradish root clears your sinuses by sending a rush of sneeze-inducing fumes through your nose. Sounds painful but I am a sucker for punishment and absolutely love it.

 I grated the fresh root and crusted the top of the halibut filet with the coconut-like shavings before baking it in the oven until the flesh was opaque. The crust toasted into a delicious golden brown color and I sprinkled the fresh gremolata on top. I placed the fish on a streak of the fiery tomato sauce and plated some refreshing, shaved celery salad on the side. One of the main components in your typical Bloody Mary mix was not left out.

Worcestershire Sauce is usually added to give the mix a little more depth and character. I made a sticky, Worcestershire Sauce reduction and drizzled it in the corner of the plate. When you ran your fork through every component on the plate, the flavors of a classic Bloody Mary all came together in an elegant seafood dish. The crispy horseradish crust protected the moist, flaky fish. The heat from the tomato sauce was tamed by the cool, celery salad, and the reduction and gremolata side-swiped your palate with rich and salty flavors. I paired this deconstructed cocktail dish with an intriguing wine from Salento, Italy.

The 2008 Li Veli Primonero is a unique blend (kind of like vodka and tomato juice) of Primitivo and Negromaro grapes. The Primitivo (Italian Zinfandel) is picked in early August and produces fresh, ripe fruit flavors, while the Negromaro is picked in late September, producing dark fruit and earthy flavors. The stark difference in picking times, and styles of the grapes combine to make a very well balanced, food-friendly wine. The color is deep ruby purple, with fresh berries on the nose and a velvety mouthfeel. The wine is medium bodied and rich with a finish that Italians would say is, “full of finesse”. This is a one of a kind blend that shows that new and innovative winemaking in an Old World wine country is on the rise. After a meal like this, I am anxiously looking forward to football season or at least maybe some more 10am World Cup Soccer matches, where Bloody Mary will be in attendance.

While walking through Whole Foods the other day, I noticed that garlic scapes had made their annual debut. For only about two weeks of every year, farmers markets, and some grocery stores are flooded with these curly-Q link delights. Once upon a time, these scapes sat on the top of every farmer’s compost heap, but now they are making their way into the kitchens of garlic lovers everywhere.

 Garlic as we know it, starts its journey underground as a soft bulb. Once it grows and hardens, a bright green shoot pokes its head through the soil and curls into a beautiful tendril. If these pliable garlic scapes are left unattended, they will harden and stop the growth of the bulb, making it a no-brainer for farmers to start snipping away.

Now that chefs and foodies are fighting over these once a year treats, farmers are getting a two for one deal by selling them off along with their more commonly seen bulbs. In my opinion, garlic scapes are best when eaten raw. Unlike raw garlic cloves, the scapes are far less pervasive and pungent.

Their flavor is a gentle and mild, almost a cross between garlic, green onions, leeks, and asparagus. When you snap into one, you can immediately smell garlic but the flavor is tame and almost grassy. When I saw a pile of the scapes sitting in a basket at Whole Foods, I got really excited and bought them all because who knows when I’ll ever see them again. People thought I was walking out of the store with two coiled garden hoses.

 I got home and decided to make a giant batch of garlic scape pesto, which is the best way to utilize two pounds of scapes because the pesto is freezable.

I sliced them up and tossed them into the food processor along with lemon juice, Spanish Marcona Almonds, and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

I decided to use marcona almonds instead of pine nuts in this pesto because the strong flavors of the scapes needed something a little nuttier than pignoles. I drizzled in a thin stream of extra virgin olive oil as the motor roared away, and in no time I had a huge batch of pesto.

The color was so bright and vibrant, it looked like a giant bowl of Chlorophyll! At least I know that my fiance isn’t a vampire because she couldn’t stop dipping her bread into it.

 I tossed some Perciatelli pasta into a pot of boiling water and waited patiently for it to cook. Perciatelli is like a thick Bucatini but with a hole in the middle… kind of like a curly straw or a garlic scape!  When the pasta was just undercooked, I tossed it in a skillet with a blob of pesto, some baby sea scallops and a ladle of the pasta water. The baby sea scallops were so fresh, I was eating them raw while the pasta was cooking.

They only need about a minute and you don’t want to overcook them. Unlike the large sea scallops, the babies are mild and sweet. The lime green pasta started to come together and I plated it with a fresh garlic scape and a torn piece of chewy baguette. If you’re curious about the Japanese anime character hiding amidst the jungle of scapes, that’s just the crazy wine label from Fetish “the V Spot” Viognier from the Barossa Valley, Austrailia. This 100% Viognier is as light and vibrant, as the pesto is. It’s wonderfully aromatic, with nuances of lime zest and fresh flowers. The acidity and crsip finish make this wine perfect on its own or even better with food.

Flavors of honeydew melon and citrus didn’t overpower but rather complimented the humble garlic flavors in the dish. We sat the dinner table, twirling and slurping away until our cheeks were green and our breath was deadly. During the two week long garlic scape season, it’s acceptable to have garlic breath because the scapes are just too delicious.

Construction… check! Electricity… check! Warm weather… check! The roofdeck is finally complete and mother nature was cooperating (minus the brief thunderstorms). This past weekend we planned to have our first dinner on our brand new moon-lit dining room. The humidity was unbearable so I decided to make something light and healthy.

The traditional salad Nicoise was originated in the city of Nice, France but became extremely popular in America when Julia Child introduced it to us in her cookbook “The French Chef”. The original components to this salad are debatable but for the most part it contains canned tuna, potatoes, haricot vert, olives, tomatoes, red onion, and hard boiled eggs.

I left the supermarket with the impression that I still had a few eggs left in the fridge but they magically disappeared, so I left the eggs out of my salad. I also wanted to put my own twist on this classic salad, so instead of using the canned tuna or sardines, I bought some sushi grade, Ahi tuna. 

Ahi tuna is a species of tuna that is typically seared, or eaten raw, sashimi style. I’m sure you’ve seen it before because every restaurant in America has some sort of seared tuna, or tuna tartar appetizer on their menu these days.

I loved this cold salad idea because I was a little skeptical about bringing hot food up the spiral staircase for the first time. Plus, we wanted to sit on the deck and relax without having to worry if our food was getting too cold. I started out by boiling some baby Yukon Golds until they were fork tender.

Then I quickly blanched my haricot vert and after less than a minute transferred them to an ice bath to stop the cooking. I like when my veggies still have a solid snap to them. After that one pot of boiling water was dumped, all of my indoor cooking was finished.

I continued slicing my olives, tomatoes and onions, and seasoned my Ahi tuna steaks with tons of cracked peppercorns. In order to get a nice crust on the tuna, along with keeping the center nice and rare, you need to have an extremely hot grill. I let mine preheat for about 20 minutes until it was close to 700 degrees before I flopped my fish on.

Only a few minutes on each side and I was done. I sliced the tuna and tossed it into a bowl with all of my other components. The center was just slightly warm and bright pink.

Tuna is a great piece of fish for grilling because its flesh is firm and dense. Unlike other delicate fish that would flake off and fall through the grates, tuna can be treated like a steak. To make my vinaigrette, I combined Dijon mustard, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and olive oil in a small Tupperware container and shook the living hell out of it. This technique works for this whisk-free vinaigrette because the Dijon makes it thick and creamy.

I tossed my motley crew of flavorful and bold ingredients together and headed up to the roof with a bottle of wine made from more components than were in my salad. Sokol Blosser’s Evolution is a unique white wine made from the most random blend of grapes, I have ever seen.

 It boasts nine different varietals ranging from Chardonnay and Pinot Gris to Muller-Thurgau and Slyvaner all grown in Oregon. This is a really fun wine that’s perfect for a warm, muggy summer night and great with all types of cuisine. It’s off dry and has fresh aromas of freshly cut flowers, and key lime pie. Every sip seems to be different and “evolve” on your palate.

Sometimes you taste semi sweet flavors of sugary nectarines and others are bone dry with hints of pineapple and allspice. For such a weird blend, these random grapes produce a seriously complex wine that leaves you thinking after every sip. It’s bright acidity and off-dry flavors make it a great match for light salads, seafood, and especially spicy Spanish or Asian food.

As the sun set, we sat on our new deck and casually picked our way through a fresh and vibrant salad and sipped our white wine while our glasses and bottle started sweating profusely with condensation. The lanterns lit up the night as if it was twelve noon and the view of the Thomas Park monument towered over us. It was a truly perfect night and a great way to break in the new deck. We all know that wine evolves, but condos evolve, and classic French dishes evolve as well. I am happy to say that the gourmet is now officially back on the Rooftop.

On Sunday we drove to Dedham to check out the new Whole Foods at Legacy Place because we heard it was out of this world. I’m surprised Siobhan let me go knowing how I am in a regular Whole Foods, let alone an oversized culinary kingdom. I could tell she was getting a bit nervous on the drive over because she started firing out dinner ideas, hoping that one would click and we wouldn’t spend four hours wandering down every aisle.

I could tell she was getting even more nervous, almost desperate, when she said she was craving a big chicken Ceasar salad. This was coming from the only person I know who doesn’t like chicken.

At first, I tried to remember the last time I actually had a Ceasar Salad; probably at least ten years ago when a Ceasar salad was like a prerequisit for every entree I ordered. I thought about all of the wild things I’d find in this massive culinary Disneyland, and Ceasar salad sounded a little too “blah” for me. 

After wandering around aimlessly for about an hour, completely overwhelmed, and full from all of the sample stations, I admitted defeat. I was completley stumped as to what to make for dinner. I started grabbing Ceasar salad components and sadly tossing them into my basket. It wasn’t until I made it to the cheese department before a light bulb went off in my head. I could make the boring, old Ceasar salad fun again but deconstructing all of the salad’s and the salad dressings’ components, and putting a slight twist on the traditional recipe.

All of a sudden, I sprung to life and started floating through the supermarket tossing all sorts of items into my basket. I was a little disappointed that they didn’t have fresh sardines to grill, but the white anchovies were a decent substitute.

We left the Whole Foods monstrosity and headed home to bring this dish together. The first thing I did when we got home was get the chicken breasts marinating in tons of fresh lemon juice, Dijon mustard, salt and pepper.

 This has always been my go-to grilled chicken marinate because it brings tons of flavor and lemons and Dijon are typically always in my fridge. I cheated and brought out the blender to make the dressing. I dunno if I was just too exhausted from Legacy Place or what, but the whisk was giving me an evil look all night. I tossed all the ingredients in at once (one raw egg, a few anchovies, lemon juice, olive oil, a clove of garlic, dash of Worchestire, salt and pepper) and let the motor do the work. In no time, the Ceasar dressing was thick, flavorful, and set aside while I fooled around with the other ingredients.

I knew that I was going to be out on the grill with the chicken breasts anyway, so I figured that I’d grill the bread and the lettuce as well. Yes, I said grill the lettuce. This isn’t as strange as it sounds trust me.

Italians have been grilling leafy greens for hundreds of years. Grilled radicchio or endive with a simple viniagrette is excellent for antipasti. I broke down the major components that make a classic Ceasar a Ceasar… an egg, garlic, anchovies, Parmesan cheese, and croutons. At least that’s what I think of when I picture a Ceasar salad. I hard boiled a few eggs, I reserved a few halved cloves of garlic to rub or grate into my warm, grilled croutons, and I set aside a few more white anchovies to garnish the dish with. I spread the cheese out on a baking Silpat sheet in a flat circle and baked them slowly until they were crispy, but still pliable.

When they were still warm out of the oven I molded them around these cool glasses that were in the cabinet so that they would set in a wavy bowl shape. I headed out to the grill and as soon as it was as hot as can be, I threw on the chicken, bread and finally at the last minute, the whole heads of Romaine. The lettuce only takes a minute and the grill has to be extremely hot. Back inside, I started assembling like an artist would on a blank canvas.

I put all of the deconstructed components onto a bamboo serving platter, topped with the sliced chicken breasts and a drizzle of the homemade Ceasar dressing. This was a really fun dish to eat. Everything tasted very good separately, but when you started to combine different components, all the classic flavors of Ceasar salad started to come together. I contrasted this playful dish with a really serious white wine. The 2008 Rustenberg Stellenbosch Chardonnay from Stellenbosch, South Africa is one of my new favorite whites. This wine reminded me of a fine White Burgundy, but coming from one of the rising star, wine making regions of South Africa.

It was beautifully balanced with oak, minerals, acid and fruit. Tons of orange and lemon peel flavors, as well as nectarines and apricots. The oak isn’t too overbearing, but makes its appearance in the finish with a slight toasted almond flavor. It is elegantly creamy, but still has enough acidity to make it a great food wine. Certainly all of the components in this wine come together and merge beautifully, I wouldn’t dare try to take them apart.