Rooftop Gourmet

After sitting through three painful hours of football on Sunday, I needed something to cheer me up. I dusted the snow off of my grill and went out to refill my propane tank. You know you have a grilling problem when the man at UHaul says, “Damnnnn kid that tank’s got some mileage on it!”. On the way home I stopped off at the Butcher Shop in the South End and picked up some beautiful, two inch thick lamb loin chops; basically a lamb T-bone steak.

I threw the chops into a marinade of olive oil, garlic, fresh rosemary, fresh oregano, and lemon juice and let them hang out for a few hours while I mentally transitioned from football to basketball season.

In the meantime, my girlfriend and I started experimenting with the shredded Parmesan-Reggiano we had in the fridge, attempting to make cannoli shells out of the cheese. I sprinkled a handful onto a silicone mat (you can get these in any cooking store, they’re called Silpats) and spread it out into a flat circle.

I baked them slowly until they were pliable but not too crispy and rolled them around the handle of my whisk; this was actually a lot easier than I had expected it to be.

I piped the cannoli shells with a mixture of lowfat ricotta cheese and chopped green olives for a slightly salty tang. On the side I made a caponata which is another Sicilian sweet and sour dish.

Caponata in its simplest form is an eggplant based side dish that is sauteed with white wine vinegar. I added bell peppers, onions, capers, and some honey to balance out the sour vinegar taste.

 Caponata is really easy to make and is great on top of fish or bruschetta. After all of the components were in the works, I bundled up and ventured out onto the deck to fire up the grill. The lamb chops were flaring up and browning a little bit too quickly so I had to stand them up vertically on the bone to let them finish.

 Just about when borderline frostbite kicked in, the lamb was medium rare and I sprinted inside to warm up. Instead of the mint jelly that is classically served with lamb chops, I whipped up a fresh mint vinaigrette to drizzle on the plate and freshen the dish up.

I brought out a bottle of the 1999 E. Guigal Hermitage from the Rhone Valley, France and decanted it to let it breath for a bit. Rhone Valley wines, especially Hermitage (which in this case is 100% Syrah) are perfect for lamb or game dishes because they’re muscular and fruity.

This bottle had some age to it which mellowed it out just a tad but the red fruit and black currant flavors were still prominent. The wine was slightly violet in color and had underlying flavors of licorice and tar that intermingled with the fresh fruit.

It was full bodied and had great acidity; the 24 months in French Oak gives it solid structure and a super rich mouth feel. This wine could have been cellared for another 10 years. It was a perfect match for this hearty winter dish but it couldn’t bring the Patriots season back unfortunately.

“Italian Food” is a term that is almost impossible to define because each and every region of the country is so diverse when it comes to food and wine. Italians cook with whatever is grown or caught locally and only grow certain foods or grapes that are indigenous to a specific area. This is one of the reasons why you see a lot of rich braises and stews like Osso Bucco in the north and light seafood dishes in the south and in coastal cities.

Sicily has one of the strangest collections of indigenous ingredients and their cuisine is like a giant melting pot of cultures. Influences of Spanish, Greek, African, and Arab culture and cuisine all pop up in Sicilian food. One of the most interesting aspects of Sicilian cooking is their incorporation of sweet ingredients to their savory food.

Since they are known for their desserts, it almost seems as if they are just throwing the leftovers into their pasta dishes but the style actually comes from other cultures. Classic Sicilian dishes contain lots of citrus, sugars, dried fruits, nuts, cinnamon and nutmeg spices… all while incorporating seafood (it’s an island).

It seems really strange but some of the combinations are delicious. I chose the pistachio to work with because Sicilians use them a lot in desserts, like pistachio gelato, but I wanted to make a pasta sauce with them.

I pulsed a cup of pistachios in the food processor until I was left with a bright green pistachio dust. I made a simple cream sauce and incorporated the toasted ‘dust’ into the cream to add color and pistachio flavor. The little green nut looks like a lime jelly bean but has a buttery, almost avocado-like quality to it (they’re also very good for your heart).

I tossed the sauce with some calamari or as the Sicilians would call it ‘cuttlefish’ to add a briny component to the pasta. I chose the Farfalle pasta (bow ties) because the shape is conducive for adhering to heavy cream sauces and sprinkled some chopped pistachios on top for an added crunch.

To sop up all of the leftover sauce, I made some roasted garlic-caramelized shallot toast which fit well with the Sicilian theme. Balances of sweet and salty are what this cuisine is based on and when garlic cloves are roasted and onions are caramelized they take on a wonderful sweet quality which worked nicely with the rich, nutty sauce.

I chose a white wine from the Alto Adige region of Italy, the 2008 Terlan Terlano, which is grown in the mountains to the north. This wine is symbolic of Sicilian cuisine because it is a blend of multiple white grapes; Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay, all which come together to create something unique.

The wine was excellent with the rich pasta dish because the acidity and minerality helped cut through the creamy sauce. It is medium bodied and beautifully balanced with tons of green apple and melon flavors. 

 The finish was crisp and refreshing, leaving an almost yeasty, buttery feeling on my palate. I feel that a red wine would have masked the subtle pistachio flavors but rather the white made them come alive. I find it quite ironic that Sicilians are famous for their desserts but still incorporate sweet items into their food; my sweet tooth craving was cured after dinner was finished.

One of my dad’s favorite desserts growing up was tapioca pudding but we rarely ate it because of the strange texture that turns most people away. The gooey pearls of who knows what, floating around in creamy globs of vanilla pudding. Recently, my girlfriend made a batch for herself and it intrigued me. I wondered if instead of adding sugar and vanilla extract to sweeten it, could I add savory spices?

I had a bottle of the 2006 Baileyana Firepeak Vineyards Pinot Noir which is grown on volcanic soil so I tried to play with that concept and create some ‘lava’ (smoked paprika tapioca pudding). The Baileyana is one of the most intriguing Pinot Noirs from California that I have ever tasted.

The vineyard is located at the foot of Islay Mountain, the southernmost in a chain of extinct volcanoes known as the Seven Sisters. The french winemaker creates this Pinot with a little Burgundian, old world influence, a little new world power, and a third futuristic element that comes from the soil. This is not your typical California, straightforward Pinot. The volcanic element in the soil known as “Devil’s Dirt” puts stress on the vines, forcing them to struggle, which in turn encourages the intense characteristics of Pinot Noir to shine through.

I started experimenting with the tapioca and eventually achieved the intense smoky flavor and bright magma color that I was looking for. Tapioca is actually a starch extracted from the Brazilian cassava root and is used as a thickener as well as the base for tapioca pudding.

Continuing with the healthy eating in 2010 theme, I subsituted mashed potatoes for cauliflower puree. After boiling the florets in milk, I transferred them to the blender and added some salt and lemon juice… no butter believe it or not (it was hard but I refrained).

The result was smooth as silk texture and light as air, fluffy puree; a perfect bed for my roasted chicken. I brined my chicken 12 hours ahead of time to keep the meat moist and juicy. Brining is a great way to enhance the flavor and texture of chicken or turkey. Simply soak the meat in water, salt, and sugar for up to 24 hours before cooking (keep the ratio: 1/4 cup salt to 1/4 sugar to 1 quart water).

The salt changes the muscle structure and allows it to retain more moisture throughout the cooking process; a chef’s secret to why chicken tastes better when you go out to eat.

 I removed the drumsticks and thighs from the brine and dried them off completely before I pan roasted them with some shallots and lemon. The skin got nice and crispy while the dark meat was succulent and tender on the inside. I plated the dish with some blanched broccoli rabe to add some color and a bitter component that followed the healthy trend.

The wine was bigger and fruitier than most Pinots, bursting with black raspberry jam and black cherry fruit. The tannins were stronger than normal but still smooth which made it stand up great to the dark chicken meat and the smoky ‘lava’. I would classify this as a big, powerful Pinot, which is somewhat of an oxymoron. The wine is full of spice and interesting acidity and minerality that makes you wonder what you’re drinking. The wine was superb and it was a perfect match for my tapioca experiment; kind of like the baking soda/vinegar volcano experiment I did in second grade.

Now that the holidays are almost over, I have started thinking about New Years resolutions and the one that always seems to pop up every year is once again at the top of my list; cooking and eating healthier. It seems like for the past two weeks, everywhere I went there were platters of food to be picked at and elaborate meals, and desserts prepared begging me to devour everything in sight; the cold weather doesn’t help. Last night I decided to get a fresh start, which is ironic because the base of my dish is a sofrito; the ’starter’ for many dishes in all types of cuisine.

The only difference is that I used it as a starter and a finisher. In its simplest state, a sofrito is finely diced onions and tomatoes cooked for a long period of time in olive oil. Depending on what country you’re from, other ingredients are added such as bell peppers, chilies, garlic, olives, celery, etc. The sofrito is just a way to slowly develop and layer different flavors which will eventually become the base for  more elaborate dishes such as soups, stews, and braises. I figured it would be a great way to make a simple, healthy dish burst with flavor without tons of butter and fat.

Since I wasn’t planning on turning my sofrito into a hearty stew, I wanted to use colorful ingredients with a wide range of different flavors. I chose bell peppers (red, orange, and yellow), onions, jalapenos, garlic, and tomato paste instead of diced tomatoes.

The sweetness of the peppers balanced out the heat from the jalapeno and I added some fresh lime zest to liven it all up. This is such an easy meal  to make because once you get all of the prep work done, you just throw it all in a pot and let it cook slowly (about 30 minutes) in some extra virgin olive oil until everything gets soft.

I topped the sofrito with a pan roasted Cod that was light and flaky but still very moist on the inside. In Cuban cuisine, a sofrito is often used to start slow cooked bean dishes so I added some monster white beans and a tiny salad of micro basil dressed with lime juice.

 The whole dish was exploding with flavor and I didn’t feel guilty afterwards cleaning my plate. The age old saying is that white wine always goes with fish but I love finding different red varietals that work with seafood. Pinot Noir is the obvious red to turn to because its light and fruity but other reds such as Dolcetto and Grenache make fish come alive in my opinion. I paired this dish with the 2008 Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha from Spain; one of my all time favorite great value, everyday reds.

You notice that the wine is extremely young for a red wine (2008) and that’s a good thing because most grenache should be drunken fresh (there are some exceptions). It’s loaded with a ripe, red fruit and floral bouquet and extremely soft and seductive on your tongue. The finish lingers with hints of cracked black pepper and strawberry preserves. Even though it has a little bit more structure and body than a Pinot Noir, it didn’t overpower the fish one bit. Hopefully this uber healthy meal was a good kickstart to a nutritious 2010; and a good kick in the ass to get to the gym.  

I must have been a very good boy this year because instead of coal in my stocking, Santa brought me a fresh white truffle; arguably, the best Christmas present ever! My parents are fully aware of my truffle obsession and arranged to fly in a  huge white truffle, overnight straight from Alba, Italy. They handed me the Styrofoam box on Christmas eve and I had no idea what to expect until I lifted the lid just a hair. A burst of funky truffle aroma hit me in the face and turned me into a little kid on Christmas.

Most people don’t get this excited over a box of fungus, but if you’ve ever experienced fresh white truffles shaved on your meal you will empathize with me.

There are over a hundred different species of truffles, but only a few are highly prized as food in French, Italian, Spanish, and Croatian cooking. The white truffle, or otherwise known as the Alba Truffle (seen here) comes from the Piedmont region of northern Italy. The truffle is what drives people to Alba in the fall for the truffle festivals and truffle hunts.

These fungi grow underground at the base of large trees, and the weather, climate, and soil are all contributing factors to the quality of the product; very similar to wine. You can’t just grow truffles anywhere, which makes them so highly esteemed, and expensive. The famous 18th century French gastronome, Brillat-Savarin called white truffles, “the diamond of the kitchen”, because of they’re indescribable ability to elevate a dish to a whole new level.

When these little truffles are growing underground it’s very hard to know where to look for them, so we turn to pigs. Female pigs especially because there is a specific compound inside the truffle that is almost identical to the sex pheromone in boar’s saliva; making female hogs natural truffle seekers (another reason why I want to get a pet pig). If you’ve ever smelled a truffle, tasted truffle oil, or been in a restaurant when a waiter walks by you with truffle on a plate, you know why they’re so expensive (around $3,500. per pound).

 The distinctive, pungent, sexy aroma fills the room and mystifies people, leaving them craving more. They don’t even have much of a taste at all, it’s just the overpowering odor that makes people want to smell it over and over again. When you’re cooking with fresh white truffles, you never want to make anything too elaborate that will steal the show. I chose to make fresh egg noodle linguine tossed with lots of clarified butter, and topped with a raw egg yolk. While the pasta is still steaming hot, I shaved the white truffle over the dish with my new stainless steel truffle shaver.

The heat and steam from the dish made the truffle smell even more intense and sent me into a frenzy. The fresh pasta was delicate and silky, completely coated with butter and the rich egg. Truffles are classically paired with rich buttery foods because they bring the best out of those other ingredients. The pasta disappeared quickly but luckily I made a wild mushroom risotto for the second truffle course. Risotto is made with a specific grain of rice called Arborio.

This is a long grain rice which has a special starchy coating on the outside making it perfect for the slow cooking risotto process. Not only do truffles go great shaved atop risotto, the raw grains are the best way to store fresh truffles. I buried the leftover truffle in the Arborio rice and enclosed it in a mason jar so that the aromas and flavor are preserved. The wild mushroom risotto was rich and earthy, with a bit of tang from the freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

I served a special wine with this meal because it’s not everyday you have a fresh white truffle in your kitchen. I pulled out a 1995 Rinaldi Barolo, also hailing from the Piedmont region of Italy.

Barolo is the king of Piedmont when it comes to wine. It is one of the most powerful, and fruit forward varietals in the whole world, extending its longevity years longer than most wines. This wine was made 14 years ago and when I opened it up, I realized it still could have rested for another ten years. When serving older wines, it is better to pair them with simple dishes; it doesn’t get much better than old Barolo and white truffles. It was brick red in color and still had floral, earthy aromas.

The wine was round and muscular, giving off flavors of smoke, black cherry, tar, and grilled meats. Every sip was complimented by the steamy truffle smells from the plate below, transporting me to the countryside in Alba. I still have about half of the truffle leftover and I’m planning on waking up tomorrow morning to some amazing scrambled eggs.