Rooftop Gourmet

Whenever I eat lobster, I order it steamed, throw on a bib, roll up my sleeves, and dig in. It was a beautiful day Wednesday and I had the day off so I decided to walk down to Yankee Lobster and pick up a few monsters. I had the whole day to work with, so I wanted to experiment with a couple different preparations.

 Yankee Lobster is located right on the dock and has the freshest seafood imaginable. I literally walked right into the back door and pulled two 3lb. bugs out of the water and brought them back to the condo.

There are many different ways to kill a lobster and some people think that certain ways are more humane than others. You can throw them right into a pot of boiling water, put them in the freezer first, or just take your chef’s knife to its head. Because I wanted to cook the tail separately from the claws, I had an interesting afternoon to say the least.

I was forced to rip the lobsters in half with my bare hands while they were still alive in order to separate the tail from the rest of the body. This wouldn’t have been so bad if both separated parts stopped moving but the tail was jumping and curling around my wrist for up to half an hour afterwards.

It was like a scene from a creepy alien movie. The nerves inside the tail and the body were on the fritz, which made it extremely difficult to remove the shell, but after some wrestling around, I managed to yield a perfectly intact, raw lobster tail.

 I simply boiled the claws and removed the meat for my chilled lobster salad. Every remaining part, including the head was then thrown into a giant pot of water with onion, celery, parsley, peppercorns, lemons, and bay leaf to boil away for lobster stock.

 I rolled the lobster tails in paper thin slices of Prosciutto di San Daniele…gourmet pigs in a blanket.

 I gently seared one side, while I basted the rest of the tail in clarified butter until it was cooked throughout.

This was a tedious process but well worth it because the lobster meat was not overcooked. After it rested, I sliced it thin and served it atop a silky smooth puree of turnips laced with fresh vanilla bean. The combination of the luscious tail meat and salty Prosciutto, with the creamy and sweet turnip puree was heavenly.

 The underlying flavor of fresh vanilla bean brought the dish to a whole new level.

On the right side of the plate, I made a cold lobster claw meat salad with fresh fava beans, tangerine supremes, and mache lettuce rosettes. To lighten it up in contrast to its partner to the left, I opted to leave the mayonnaise out of the salad.

 Instead I tossed it with lemon juice and a heaping tablespoon of Dijon mustard. The balance between light and cold and rich and warm on the same plate was really cool and it displayed the versatility of the sea creature. It felt great to use essentially every part of the lobster for something. After 8 hours on the stovetop, the lobster stock made roughly three quarts to use at a later date.

The wine pairing for this dish was tough due to the clashing styles, but I ended up opening the 2008 Le Paradou Viognier. It was forwardly aromatic right from the start. Tons of orange peel, flowers, and exotic herbs on the nose. The wine is actually a lot bigger in style from what I anticipated and had a slightly creamy finish to it, which paired well with the Prosciutto wrapped tail. The wine had great acidity, and flavors of peach pit and tangerine zest.

In my opinion, the wine worked better with the cold salad stylistically but was still pleasant to drink with the warm dish. Viognier in general is a great white wine for Spring, whether it’s served with food or drank on its own. If you want to re-create this meal at home, trust me…. don’t get too attached to the lobsters before you start.

I love learning about other cultures and cuisines from around the world. Something about new and exotic flavor combinations fascinates me. Who would have thought that combining cinnamon and dried chilies tastes good, or carrots and ginger? I stumbled upon a new region of the world to learn about because of a hidden gem known as the Milford Spice Company.

 They are based out of Michigan but offer free shipping. They have the largest selection of spices I have ever seen. You name it… they have it.

Everything from Celtic Grey Sea Salt to Traditional Japanese Shichimi Spice; and they’re all delivered fresh to your door. I ordered some authentic Ethiopian Berber Spice Rub which is a staple in northern African cuisine.

Berber can come in a paste form as well but I opted for the dried version. There are many different varieties but long story short, it is a mix of dried chilies, paprika, garlic, ginger, all spice, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, cloves, and fenugreek.

 A giant hodge podge of dried spices that all come together in harmony to create a sweet and spicy rub for meats and vegetables (just not pork because Ethiopians do not eat pork for religious reasons). I decided to sprinkle this magical dust all over a tiny squab that I roasted in the oven.

The brick red Berber spice adhered to the bird uniformly while I let it marinate in the fridge for a few hours ahead of time while I prepared the side dishes.

 The combination of carrots and fresh ginger is something that you’ll find in Ethiopia a lot.

I decided to make a carrot-ginger chutney which is slightly sweet, to serve with the squab to balance out some of the heat. A chutney is basically a spice and vegetable mixture that is rendered down almost to a wet paste, similar to an Italian caponata. I sauteed some cubed carrots and fresh ginger root, with some shallots and garlic until it was soft. Then I added some honey, golden raisins, and white wine vinegar before I covered it with vegetable stock and let it simmer away.

After about 45 minutes, the stock completely evaporated and what was left was a paste-like, sweet and sour chutney that still had a little bit of texture to it.

I also made some cumin scented, black sticky rice to serve as the base for my bird. I started the squab off in a screaming hot, 500 degree oven to create a crispy crust and then lowered the temperature to 375 degrees to finish off the cooking evenly. The aromas in my kitchen from the roasted spices were unlike anything I had ever smelled before. It was like roasted Christmas cinnamon sticks inside of a Tennesee BBQ pit.

Due to the heat in the Berber spice, I paired this meal with an off-dry Riesling from Washington State. The grapes from Charles Smith’s 2009 Kung Fu Girl Riesling are grown on extremely rocky soil in the Columbia Valley which gives it some rich minerality and powerful aromas of peaches and spring flowers. The wine is fresh and acidic with layered flavors of apricots, Asian pear, and a refreshing lime finish. At 12.5% alcohol, this Riesling had the perfect amount of sweetness to balance the Berber spiced squab.

The succulent, rich dark meat from the bird was so moist, and the crispy skin was infused with so many different flavors. I tamed some of the dried chilies with a dollop of plain yogurt and cumin seeds. Although I tried to replicate an authentic Ethiopian dish, I didn’t follow their customs as to how I ate it. Ethiopians eat with their hands and I opted to stick to the silverware.

Early in the week, my mother took a trip to Lazy Daze farm, just 45 minutes west of Boston, to pick up a brand new Golden Retriever puppy. Not only did she come back with the cutest dog ever, she brought me a present as well. She noticed that the farm was home to a bunch of Araucana chickens and she asked for a dozen of their freshly laid eggs.

The Araucana is not your typical chicken. These guys lay baby blue eggs and have tufts of hair on their cheeks that make them look like Rollie Fingers with a handlebar mustache.

The farm fresh eggs were slightly smaller than the typical, mass produced eggs I normally buy, but they looked like freshly painted Easter eggs! It’s not everyday that you come across farm fresh eggs (unless you live on a farm I guess), so I wanted to celebrate the egg and prepare it three different ways in order show off its versatility.

Poached, fried, and baked are just three of the many ways to eat eggs but three of my favorite nonetheless. The first egg dish that I created is a classic preparation. I roasted some organic asparagus and placed a sunnyside up, fried egg on top of the stalks so that the broken yolk could simulate a creamy Hollandaise.

I topped the dish with some shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano and a drizzle of white truffle oil. The grassy asparagus with a hint of lemon compliments the creamy yolk and the nutty, sharp cheese accentuates the captivating truffle aroma.

The second dish I made is a little bit lighter, but also a classic combination. I made a roasted wild mushroom and frisee salad, tossed with a gentle lemon vinaigrette.

On top of the salad sits a perfectly poached egg filled with a bright golden yolk that’s just itching to burst. I thought that the image of an egg on top of the frisee was slightly ironic because it looked like the green hay that is used to stuff Easter baskets. I don’t know whether it is because the eggs were super fresh or whether it is a typical trait of Araucana eggs, but the yolks were a deep orange color and extra creamier. They had the consistency of a Cadbury egg filling.

The last dish that I made was something unique. I love the combination of acidic, juicy tomatoes and rich, and creamy eggs so I chose to combine them in a baked presentation. I marinated some whole vine ripe tomatoes in olive oil, garlic, shallots, rosemary, and a heaping palmful of dried chili flakes.

 I threw the tomatoes on a fiery grill and let them roast over the open flames until they were just about ready to pop. Once the skin peeled off, it allowed the smoky grill flavors to permeate the flesh.

 I quickly transferred the grilled tomatoes to the blender, where they were pulsed into a chunky puree. I filled a ramekin with the spicy grilled tomato puree and cracked one of the Araucana eggs over it before placing it in a hot oven. While the contents of the ramekin were baking, I made a homemade sourdough crouton that came out perfectly golden brown and crispy. I spooned the baked egg and grilled tomato sauce over the crispy crouton and gave it a splash of nice olive oil and a chiffonade of fresh basil.

The diversity of texture was awesome, and the creamy egg cooled down the spicy sauce. Because the three preparations were vastly different, I chose a wine that would compliment a wide variety of dishes.

 It’s Rose’ season so don’t be embarrassed to hold a big glass of pink (as long as it’s not White Zinfandel). The Rose’ I opened is very different from the classic Rose’s from Provence. The Domaine du Tariquet is from south-west France and is a blend of 40% Merlot, 40% Syrah, and 20% Tannat. The red wine grapes go through the same vinification process that white wine grapes do, giving the wine a Grenadine-like hue to it and some serious body.

 Tannat is a grape that is typically used as a blending grape, but has strong raspberry aromas and high tannins. Of all wine-making grapes, Tannat is proven to be extremely good for your cardiovascular health. It has an extremely high level of Procyanidins, which counteract the effect of high fat diets. Tannat drinkers obtain extreme levels of these compounds which decreases the risk of diabetes and improves overall longevity.

The wine has a pomegranate hue to it, and strong aromas of wild strawberries and rose petals. Despite its full body, the Rose’ is delightfully fresh on the palate and finishes with a salty, spicy note. Rose’s are excellent Spring and Summer wines and they compliment a wide variety of cuisine. Everything from spicy Thai food, to farm fresh poached eggs.

A huge thanks to my mom and the people at Lazy Daze Farm for the fresh Araucana eggs and the addition of Gino, the Golden Retriever to the family.

Easter wasn’t all eggs, bunnies and chicks this year. A whole red snapper made it’s way into our Easter baskets. After inhaling a post-church brunch, and aggressively snacking on jelly beans, chocolate, and Peeps all afternoon, we wanted to make something light and healthy for dinner.

The weather was cooperating so we decided to stuff and grill a whole fish. The sun was still out so there was no reason to come inside off the deck until the first pitch of the Red Sox Game of course.

There are positives and negatives to buying a whole fish. First of all it’s extremely cost efficient, just like buying anything whole or “in bulk”.

 Secondly, when you cook a fish whole, it’s very hard to overcook it. The skin and bones keep all the moisture and flavor inside resulting in succulent and flavorful seafood.

You also have to have patience to eat a whole fish (which typically I don’t). If you try to scarf the whole thing down you’re going to end up with a few bones stuck in your throat. In my opinion, the slow, precision of pulling the meat out from in between the rib cage with your fork only makes the meat taste better. Very similarly to eating a lobster… the food tastes better when you have to work for it.

The downside to eating a whole fish is based on presentation. Most people get grossed out by scales, fins, and of course eyeballs.

Personally, I think the presentation is awesome and the eyeballs are delicious when charred. I had the fish monger do most of the work, by slicing the abdomen and scaling the fish before I picked it up. After rubbing down the outside down with olive oil, I stuffed it with garlic, chilies, lemongrass, ginger, cilantro and slices of lime. When the fish hits the grill, the aromatic oils in all of the ingredients permeate throughout the entire fish.

I made a vinaigrette to spoon over the finished product using the same ingredients all pulsed together in the blender. After the skin was nice and crispy on one side, I had to work magic to get this thing to flip over. After losing some arm hair to the flames, I finally managed and successfully kept the fish in tact.

 I served it on top of some  marinated zucchini carpaccio, that I thinly sliced and drizzled with olive oil and fresh lime juice. On the side, I tossed some yellow wax beans in some Thai red chili paste and sprinkled them with sesame seeds. Koreans like to dress vegetables with sesame seeds and flaming hot chili paste, but this store bought paste was very tame; unlike my twist on a Corona.

 There’s nothing better than an ice cold Corona with a lime on a scorching hot day on the deck. I added a kick to mine by slicing a Serrano chili in half and inserting it into the bottle before my lime wedge. Sip after sip gets progressively hotter but still refreshing to say the least.

The ice cold beer with a touch of heat was perfect with the moist snapper that was loaded with lemony-citrus vinaigrette. It was a great way to cap off a wonderful Easter holiday; it only would have been better if we were seated at Fenway Park watching the Sox beat the Yankees but I don’t think they serve Grilled Red Snapper at Fenway.

When I think about lasagna, I picture being huddled around a kitchen counter top with forty guys, fighting for the largest piece of Stouffer’s at high school football team dinners. Although, the defrostable lasagna did the trick back then, it was time to recreate one of my favorite pasta dishes.

Most people think that lasagna is an Italian thing but some say its origin has Greek roots. The word lasagna comes from the Greek word for chamber pot, lasanan; which describes the cooking vessel for this classic cassarole dish. You know it’s officially Spring when the asparagus section takes over an entire area of the grocery store.

 I grabbed four healthy bunches of firm stalks to be the center of attention in my Spring lasagna. Another one of my favorite Spring vegetables made its debut in the produce section as well.

 The Spring Vidalia onions were in season and more bulbous than ever. Spring Vidalias look like scallions on steroids; bright green stems attached to baseball-sized bulbs of sweet, pungent onions.

I picked up some Crimini mushrooms to add an earthy flavor into the mix before I set off to the cheese section.

 I was in no mood to stand over a hot stove whisking up a Bechemel sauce, so I replaced it with a local farm ricotta cheese. Maplebrook farm is located in Bennington, VT and they make all sorts of artisan cheese.

 Their 100% whole milk ricotta is unlike any ricotta I have ever tasted, probably because it’s made by hand with zero preservatives. The second cheese that I picked out was for the wow factor. Taleggio is an Italian, washed rind, cows milk cheese that has a wicked funky aroma but a creamy and mild flavor. Lastly, I got some Parmesan-Reggiano to sprinkle in between each layer for a slightly salty, nutty component.

With all these creamy cheeses, I decided to add something crunchy for a contrast in texture.

 I picked up a tub of unsalted cashews to chop up for a buttery, crunchy crust, and I headed home to start the long preparation process. I cleaned, sliced and roasted my mushrooms in a hot oven with no salt. Salt draws all of the moisture out of the mushrooms and they’ll end up steaming into rubbery, yellow things.

Wait until after they shrivel and get a nice dark, roasted brown color before you season them. I sliced my asparagus on the bias and blanched them quickly before transferring them to an ice bath. The ice bath immediately stops the cooking process and helps retain the beautiful, green color. I sliced the spring onions and gently sauteed them in some butter until they were translucent.

 Cooking the pasta sheets and keeping them from sticking together was the most difficult part. I tried to rinse them under cold water and toss them in olive oil but some sticking is inevitable. Once my assembly line was complete I was ready to start layering. Layer after layer got a healthy dose of each ingredient along with some salt, pepper, and lemon zest. I felt like a little kid at a make-your-own sundae birthday party

. Once the 5th layer was assembled I topped the lasagna with a chopped cashew, Parmesan crust and threw it into a 350 degree oven. The smell of melting Taleggio was immediately filling my kitchen. While we were waiting for it to cool (which is torture), I opened a bottle of 2007 Sanguineto Rosso di Montelpulciano. This 100% Sangiovese comes from the heart of Tuscany. I would recognize the smell of a Tuscan red anywhere; with fresh cherries and herbs, this wine had an amazing nose. It was young but had soft tannins and was extremely fresh tasting with great acidity.

 This light, Tuscan red was just what this Spring vegetable lasagna needed. Despite the asparagus and wine paradox, the bursting acidity was a great match for the earthy mushrooms and gooey cheese that was oozing from all four corners. I realized after three slices that the vegetarian factor doesn’t make this meal any less rich. I packed up the rest and was all set for a weeks worth of lunch leftovers.